Monday, May 18, 2009

Jill Krementz Photo Journal - Avedon Fashion

In 1975, Richard Avedon had a show of his work at the Marlborough Galley in Manhattan. The portrait on the wall is of Alexy Brodovitch, Avedon's mentor. Brodovitch was Art Director at Harper's Bazaar until he was fired by Carmel Snow in 1958. On the left is Marvin Israel, appointed in 1961 by Nancy White as Art Director of Harper's Bazaar. Israel and Avedon collaborated for many years, not only at the magazine--but also on many of Avedon's books and exhibitions.
Avedon Fashion 1944-2000
International Center of Photography

Richard Avedon
fell in love with fashion as a boy, cutting favorite images from the Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar magazines he found around the house. Avedon’s father was in the fashion apparel business and was co-owner of Avedon’s Fifth Avenue, a women’s clothing store.

In 1944, having served in the Merchant Marine, Richard Avedon took his first fashion photographs for free. As the story goes, Bonwit Tellers loaned Avedon some clothes and the store manager was so pleased with Avedon’s work that he displayed the prints in the store’s elevators. Avedon would later recount that he rode up and down, “listening hopefully for customers’ comments on my pictures. I didn’t hear one.”

The International Center of Photography is presently exhibiting a retrospective of his work, curated by Carol Squiers and Vince Aletti. The exhibition includes 175 photographs as well as original magazines showing his work in context. There is additional material demonstrating his creative process. If the visitors to this show are as quiet as the elevator passengers at Bonwits, it will only be because they are in a state of wordless wonder as they behold these beautiful images.
Ruth Ansel, a former art director of Harper's Bazaar, at entrance to ICP Exhibition. This Avedon photograph of Jean Shrimpton appeared on the cover of Harper's Bazaar in April, 1965. The issue, under the art direction of Ansel (and the late Bea Feitler) was edited and photographed entirely by Avedon, celebrating his 20 years with the magazine.
Eileen Ford — who with her husband, Jerry, started the Ford Modeling Agency — arrives at the Exhibition's Opening Night with Carmen. Howard Greenberg.
Robin Tattersal is standing next to Avedon portrait of himself on rollerskates with model Suzy Parker; Place de la Concord, Paris, August, 1956.
Carmen and Robin Tattersall. David Friend, an editor of Vanity Fair with Carmen.
Renata Adler. Dovima, dress by Veneziani, New York, 1958. Dovima, the Bronx-born daughter of a police officer, was discovered in the late 1940s. Avedon took her with him to Paris in 1950 to do the fall collections.
Sunny Harnett, hat by Balenciaga, Théâtre Marigny, Paris, 1954. Carmen, Evening Dress by Dior, Moulin Rouge, Paris, August, 1957.
Suzy Parker with Gardner McKay and Robin Tattersall, dress by Dior, Pont Alexandre III, August, 1956.
Display of magazines. Renée, "The New Look of Dior," Place de la Concorde, Paris, August, 1947.
Veronica Compton with Bruno, scarf by John Frederics, New York, July, 1949.
Veruschka, dress by Kimberly, New York, January, 1967. Penelope Tree, Mask by Ungaro, 1968.
Penelope Tree, Dress by Cardin, Paris, 1968. Dovima with elephants, evening dress by Dior, Cirque d'Hiver, Paris, August, 1955.
Eileen Ford and China Machado. Cathie Black, President of Hearst and Valerie Salembier, Publisher of Harper's Bazaar.
"Avedon Fashion 1944-2000," Abrams & ICP; $100; 372 Pages, with 245 photographs; 45 in full color. Hardcover with lenticular "blinking eye." "Blinking Eyes" Avedon pins.
Avedon postcards for sale in gift shop. Richard Goldstein, writer, teacher (Professor at Hunter); Former Executive Editor of The Village Voice.
Suzy Parker with Robin Tattersall, coat by Laroche, Palais Royal, Paris, August, 1957.
Dovima, hat and suit by Dior, Fouquet's, Paris, August, 1955. Gabrielle Chanel, Paris, March, 1958.
China Machado in front of Avedon portrait of herself. The Portugese-Chinese Machado started modeling as a house model for Givenchy in Paris in 1956. Avedon was in the audience and in 1959 booked her for Harper's Bazaar. She was the first non-caucasian model to be featured in the Paris Collections.
Lauren Hutton, bathing suit by Oscar de La Renta, Great Exuma, Bahamas, October, 1968. Lauren Hutton, sweater by Van Raalt, Bahamas, 1968.
Barbara Mullen, hat by Lilly Daché, New York, April, 1953. Twiggy, hair by Ara Gallant, Paris, February, 1968.
Twiggy, hair by Ara Gallant, Paris, February, 1968.
William Ewing, former Curator of Exhibitions at ICP, with Willis Hartshorn, Director, International Center of Photography. Eric Himmel, Editor in Chief of Harry Abrams with his wife, Carolyn Miller, former editor of New York Magazine.
Stephanie Seymour with Marcus Schenkenberg, New York, April, 1993, Versace advertising campaign, Fall-Winter 1993-1994.
Stephanie Seymour, La Passante du Siècle: Les Annees 1940," hats by Stephen Jones, jacket by Charvet, Paris, April, 1995.
Harper's Bazaar, April, 1965. Vintage Color Couples Print by Richard Avedon, Collage and Design by Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler. Model: Jean Shrimpton.
Carmen, hat by Lanvin-Castillo, Café des Beaux-Arts, Paris, August, 1956.
Text and photographs © by Jill Krementz: all rights reserved.