Tuesday, September 11, 2012

Ellin's Fashion Week Diary

Monday, September 10
Awakened to find that WWD was not delivered due to production problems, but of course the New York Times made it. A new surprise: New York Magazine is going to be couriered every Monday morning, rather than mailed. Interesting!

NYSD did make it to my iPad2, but it was a bit distorted; this turns out to be an iPad issue, definitely not my "bosses" problem.

My first show of the day was at 9 AM. I am sorry NORISOL FERRARI. I promise to try my hardest to make it to your show the next season. I admit to not being great at 9 AM shows; although they usually do not start until half an hour later. What I guiltily admit is that I have no real problem getting to the golf course that early to play with Bonnie, Margot, Ellen S., Janet, Carol, Fran K., Sheila or others; we may even do it at 8:30! The same is true of early morning tennis (maybe it's the no makeup and the geranimal clothes).
We heard Carmen stole the show at Norisol Ferrari.
This was followed by CAROLINA HERRERA, where the ladies all come out for their friend. They are also wearing her clothes, naturally. Her husband Reinaldo is front row and center with Graydon Carter (of Vanity Fair of course); with his beautiful wife Anna sitting behind him.

I do miss the days of seeing Pat Buckley giving a shout-out hello to Mica and Chessy and Jerry Z. and Nan K. and CZ. It is a different world to be sure; maybe not as much fun and maybe just the changing of the guard.
Jerry Zipkin, Nan Kempner, Annette Reed, Judy Peabody, Henry Kravis, Chessy Rayner, Mica Ertegun, and Pat Buckley at Carolyne Roehm's fashion show in 1989 (Copyright Photograph by Dafydd Jones).
Carolina's collection was very light and fluid. It was soft and sheer in chiffon and organza and tulle. The colors were pastel for the most part. Her lengths were two-fold — either long, below calf or ankle — or short, with many great pleated shorts. One of my favorites was on Frida, seafoam embroidered collar blouse and opal three-ply crepe pleated shorts.

I did not have the chance to talk to her or to the stores to see what length would be delivered this coming Spring. I am almost sure that some of the longuettes would be shortened.

At any rate, the new lengths did look good on the runway. Very Zelda at the Maidstone Club.
Carolina Herrera RTW Spring 2013.
I knew absolutely nothing about him. But I walked into the show and was hugged by one of my most favorite handsome men, Carlos Souza. He is a dream. I first met him over thirty years ago when he was a photographer in Milan and would sit at my feet during shows! Hot! And now, his sons were the disc jockeys for the show.
Carlos Souza, Charlene De Ganay, Sean Souza, and Antony Souza.
The collection was a "hallucinatory jungle." Full of animal prints in chiffons, zebras mixed with tigers and giraffes and lions; all wrapped and printed and fringed and sometimes bejeweled. Very va-va-voom. Very Brazilian.
The next collection was scheduled at 360 West 33. It is a new venue and seems to be a great space. My KCD friends found it for 3.1 PHILLIP LIM.

The crowd was large and happy with everyone able to see and be seen. I was seated with a group of New York Magazine editors, and one of the exes, Harriet Mays. Both Harriet and the present editor had new purchases from Celine. Harriet — the tricolor leather handbag, which is a winner (it too is on my "wanna have" wish list), and the editor — a Celine blazer (saying it would be several more years before she had to face tuition for her 7-year-old twins and her 2-year-old ... hence, rationalizing the expense).

Phillip Lim.
I think many folks are rationalizing more and more, but I get the feeling they are buying more. And judging by their shoes, everyone is buying them!

Since I clearly was out of the conversation surrounding me, I smiled across the runway at the team from Barney's. What a great group, starting with Simon Doonan, probably the only other person dressed in jeans besides me (he was wearing a pattern shirt and a straw nerdy-chic hat). Dennis Freeman (ex WWD) told me he was ecstatic working with this group, and Mark Lee, the CEO, ran over to kiss me hello. Now how good did that make me feel? And to say let's lunch after he returns from Europe!

It is very exciting for me to watch someone like Mark Lee get to the top (he was an assistant buyer at Saks Fifth Avenue when first we met), which he so deserves.

I feel like a proud Momma (and I am).

Back to 3.1 PHILLIP LIM (I have tried to research what the 3.1 means but cannot give you the answer).

The program notes says "Spring 2013 is an exploration into the notion of 'cut up' ... fabrics are cut up and folded-in creating a push and pull tension between street and polish." Indeed there were cut-up fabrics, patchworks, contrasts. First group was black and white; then some fun overalls in shocking nubuck leather, and a great shocking nubuck motorcycle jacket (not shown together thankfully).
He had some plaids, some ivories, some animal prints and florals, some fun patchwork pieces. Hair on the models was long and messy and full and appropriate, except for one cute short hair cut. Phillip wandered from ladylike dresses to baseball jackets and oversized sweatshirts with some "I heart Nuevo York" tees thrown in. My personal favorites were the indigo chambray "cut-up" overalls, shirt, and dress. A winner sure to be copied by the younger markets.

This was a fun collection with plenty to like.
Monday Evening
To begin with, I left home at 7:22 to take the subway down to the Armory on 26th and Lexington. When I left, the men's tennis finals between Murray and Djokovic was in the third set. when I reached home it was still on ... in the fifth set! (congrats to Andy Murray!)

Marc in a suit!
Marc Jacobs used to start his shows incredibly late ... we would bet on how late ... and his PR team would call the chief merchants and editors and tell them when to arrive. Apparently Anna read him the riot act ... and now he starts one minute before. The show started at 7:59 and ended at 8:07!

In a carpeted, modern setting the raised stage looked to me like the entrance to a modern building with models coming out of doors. Oh, how I wish there had been a note in the program telling me what it was, but I will just have to tell you my guesses and feelings.

It was a very lean, very good show. Stripes and more stripes in black and whites from tee shirts to sequin, striped jumpsuits. The stripes became red and white and tan and white. There were dresses (below the knee), suits, and oats. Structured hand bags. Low-heeled shoes or striped-heel pumps and some flats.

Some of the more suited looks reminded me of "Mad Men"-dated wear-to-work clothes. There were some great pleated skirts, and any looks with skirts on hips as though a little too large, but still below the knee. Because of the hip skirts, there were some bare midriff tops.
The most outstanding looks were the long, bold, black-and-white-striped tee shirt dress, and the checkerboard-and-striped long dress, followed by the smashing striped sequin jump suit.

It was good and clean, and Marc took his bow in a suit! Very special, Marc.
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part I.