Friday, September 13, 2013

Ellin's Fashion Week Diary, Part VI

Models among the wreckage at Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2014 collection.
by Ellin Saltzman

As I was coming home from the Apple store after Anna Sui on Wednesday evening (by the way, two names to know at West Side Apple are Jean, who calmed a nutty customer with his misbehaving Mini iPad, and Steven, the technician who came to my aid after the hour wait at the Genius Bar), I saw the magnificent towers of light penetrating the sky. I shed a tear.

Day 8: Thursday, September 12

My last day of shows.

Exiting Lincoln Center, I allowed myself 45 minutes to get to 580 Washington Street. The ride was $30! I resolved it coming home ... my new mantra is "1 train to 42 shuttle to 6 train to 77." Get it? 2,302 steps according to FuelBand.

RALPH LAUREN

Beautifully set up. A nice kiss from the very attractive and charming David Lauren as I arrived. A kiss from Jonathan Newhouse. Hellos to Fabien Baron. All happy making.

This was the press show and the one time I should have had my camera for the folks. If you did not read the name on the program you probably could not guess whose collection it was. It is a whole new direction for Ralph. Fun, young, colorful. Mod and modern, retro and up-to-date combined in a winning way.
Andrew Lauren, Ricky Lauren, Dylan Lauren, David Lauren, and Lauren Bush Lauren.
The opening nine outfits were black and white, school girl as in Sasha's opening outfit. Knee socks, brimmed English school boy caps, chunky-heeled Mary Jane patent shoes.

Outfit 10 was Katya in an English Dandy type double faced jacket with a black and white tattersall shirt and double faced wool pants

The collection continued with some great black and white separates and dresses, and an easy white ottoman ribbed mock turtle neck with matching ribbed knit mini skirt on Este (look 17)
Ralph Lauren RTW Spring 2014 ...
And then va va va VOOM came Jasmine in look 26 bright lime followed by orange and yellow and cobalt. It was a neon wonderland. Stephen Sprouse of the 2013s. It will surely brighten up Madison Avenue and Oak Street and Rodeo. These are delightfully mindless dresses, flattering, uncomplicated. Followed by a neon orange coat on Sui Le and s bright green one on Martha.
Suddenly the music played "Streets of Paris ... I miss you" and down walked Karlie in number 38. A to die for strapless cobalt silk gazar evening dress. That is going to the Met Costume Institute for sure and hopefully the Oscars as well. If not there is a red cady evening dress on Bridget and another on Josephine. Also some spectacular white evening pant looks and a white cady jumpsuit!

WOW Ralph! What can I say? WOW!
I did forget to tell you that Ralph walked down the runway in black tee/sweater and white pants. Looking very Spring fresh and non-cowboy. He also was walking as stiffly as I am. Suspect his back is hurting! But he is a love with a fabulous family who all sit together and pose together and are nice together.

One final note: I kissed Charles the marvelous design head of Ralph (I think that is his title) as I was leaving. I told him I loved the new look ... and he said "and very you!"

At 1:15, I left my home for the 2 p.m. Calvin Klein show at 50 Varick Street. I was reciting my subway mantra when the heavens opened up and I stupidly got into a taxi. He told me how terrible the traffic was. I nicely told him to please stop talking on the phone and take the quickest route down to Varick.

He somehow decided to follow our route on Google maps and I am sure took the longest possible way ... Fifth Avenue instead of the West Side Highway etc. I could do nothing except scold myself for taking a cab. We at NYSD just bought ourselves a $60 taxi ride. And I have decided I need to book a downtown hotel for next season. Or at least never ever get in a taxi to Varick or Washington or any of those locales again.

I finally reached two blocks from the show at 2:45 (one and a half hours). To my horror and hysteria I bumped into all my pals walking to the Canal street subway ... getting back on the number 1 line!! I got a blow by blow while on the train of the show and here is what I heard ...

CALVIN KLEIN
Francisco Costa is true to himself. His collection is pure and unaccessorized except for some super strappy platforms. I want those shoes!

He opened with whites, relaxed structures. Great tunic mixing sheer and solid in white and then again in black. Looks 11 and 12 are great clean white looks. A fern green coat is fringed or unfinished. One black cardigan outfit is full of fringe. There is an African feeling to much of the late day clothes not in prints but in structure. Look 31 seems to have a slinky in the middle.
Calvin Klein RTW Spring 2014 ...
It's 7 p.m. and I am leaving for the Marc Jacobs show. Happily, his show is at the Lexington Avenue Armory and reachable via the Lexington Avenue subway!

As I am writing this, I am watching a tragic scene unfold, yet again, to the Seaside Heights boardwalk in New Jersey. So disheartening to see especially after they had just rebuilt following the devastation from Hurricane Sandy.
Thursday was quite a day: Heat (which I do not mind as much as the cold) and big thunder storms that seemed to start the minute I left the house. However, I am no longer a fashion victim. I wear city shorts (my best knee-length black Bermudas and a decent black belt and black tee shirt), long sleeves (for air conditioning and the dressier occasion of fashion shows), and my very most comfortable TOMS.

My Toms.
If you do not know about TOMS, you must buy and learn. For every pair you buy they give a pair to a needy child. Better yet, they are the most comfortable and affordable flats; a cross between an espadrille and a sneaker. Mine tonight were black shiny sequin-like.

Ironically Marc Jacobs (who still hugged me and called me Mom) showed many of his clothes with bicycle pants and sequin flats. Telepathy, I guess.

At any rate I left my apartment early as I knew Marc would start exactly on time (in the olden days he was at least 40 minutes late until Anna Wintour set him straight. He was also on the first Monday of the shows, not the very last show).

As I left and headed to the Lexington Avenue subway stop on 77th street, the heavens opened up and the thunder started. Didn't matter as I had a head scarf, umbrella, and my Burberry duster.

Bumped into some more folks on the Lexington line and when we reached 28th and Park ... they took off running. I did a rain skip and lope. By the way, my Nike FuelBand says I have taken 5,640 steps today! Made over my fuel level and burned 525 calories.

MARC JACOBS
As I walked into the enormous Armory, I realized it was very dark. Very dirty looking. People were handing out fans and bottles of water as it was also very hot. Broken train on one side. Broken life guard chair. Broken boardwalk. A wreck. Where was I? When I saw the Turkish carpets on the floor, I thought okay ... maybe this is some Moorish tale and I am at some rundown marketplace. I spoke to some in the know and they corrected me. It was the Apocalypse. The End of the world.

Marc's world is ending with some absolutely spectacular matador jackets with more ball fringe than old Denning & Fourcade draperies (they were two very successful interior designers in the '70s and '80s). Most of these were shown with bicycle pants and flat sequin sneaker boots or booties. He had some dark prints with or without fringe. There were some infanta type dresses in black or dark green or deep red, always with black lace and ball fringe and fringe. Some marvelous embroidered coats. It was actually quite beautiful, but strange. I do not know how it translates to Spring 2014. Once I am taken through the collection piece by piece, I know it will start to click. The models all wore platinum blond wigs with short bangs and chin length.
Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2014.
That said, on every seat was a black and white Marc Jacobs hatbox. Very, very chic. And in every box were three great new cosmetic items. They are very, very chic. The packaging is beautiful. It should be very, very successful. Many congrats on the cosmetic launch Marc and all fondest love!

Studied Marc's collection online only to realize I neglected to mention some spectacularly easy sweater jackets and beautiful silk dresses. In photographs, the clothes are lighter than in the dark disaster-strewn runway.

The clothes are beautiful. For any season. A courageous show, Marc.
Marc Jacobs RTW Spring 2014 ...
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part 1
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part 2
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part 3
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part 4
Click here for Ellin's Fashion Diary, Part 5

Photographs by IMAXtree.

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