Friday, February 19, 2016

Ellin's Fashion Week Diary: Fall 2016 Collection

by Ellin Saltzman

The Fall 2016 shows are ending on an absolutely beautiful day, clear sparkling skies, very little wind, not a hint of the wet, cold, windy, miserable days that preceded it.

I only wish the fashion show picture was as clear as the sky.

Standing on line this morning for the Ralph Lauren Press Show (he has friends and family at 9, retailers at 11, and press at 10), I heard the words "Weird," "Strange," and "Puzzling" about the past six days of showings.

Rumor has it, and this is almost a truth, that the PRESS week shows have had it. September 2017 (which by the Fashion Calendar would be showing Spring 2017 clothes) supposedly will be presenting wear now, buy now, customer-ready clothes. That would be Fall? but haven't I just seen Fall?

If the designers are going to present wear now and buy now and see now clothes doesn't that mean that the store will have had to see the clothes at least four months before in order to purchase them? Probably more for the designers to manufacture them?

Doesn't it mean that the fashion magazines will have to see clothes to photograph a good three or four months at the least before the season?

So what is all this see now, buy now, wear now all about?

Is fashion going to return to editors sitting on little gold chairs with top merchants seeing a preview of the season (how it once was?) and then come time there would be another big show for customers? Press? Who knows.

Thank God Ralph is back!
It is all rather complicated, but if in it were all so simple in this incredibly complicated and weird world we are living, what would I (and every other critic) write about?

Looks of the week: Full confession ... I did not go to many shows!

RALPH RUCCI RR331

How exciting to have this fashion genius back and showing after a two-year hiatus. In short, his collection is magnificent. It was presented in an art space with just 23 outfits, all shown on mannikins.

It was totally black (already he had me).

Except for some totally smashing sable coats (unlined as Ralph painted and signed the inside of each pelt).

Okay, give me a great sable wrap and a fabulous black Rucci outfit and my clothes desires would be fed. My allowance would also be spent for the next five years but who cares, these are clothes to cherish and wear. They are trend-less and trend-full.
If the Gable boat means a sable coat, anchors aweigh!
Ralph's clothes are for the lady who lives surrounded by style. Who personifies style. Who knows true quality and can afford it. This Rucci lady is class to the nth degree.

It is available for personal orders NOW.
More from Ralph Rucci 331's fall 2016 collection ...
MICHAEL KORS

With a star-studded front row Michael appealed to everyone, with a variety of styles. It was a studded, beaded, furred, flowered, feathered collection. It was short and it was long.

Look #1 paved the way. A classic navy pea cot with shiny silver buttons over feathered denim wide-leg denim pants.

There were plaid and checks and suits and suit separates and fun. There were flowered furs and bright colored furs. It was educated frou-frou!
Michael Kors Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection ...
Jennifer Hudson was front and center looking very great and very all-American, while Blake Lively was getting lots of press in her bare nude color slip cocktail dress under a camel melton coat. Yin and yang.
Jennifer Hudson. Riley Keough and Blake Lively.
The audience wore lots of sparkle too, quite amazing for ten in the morning!

Michael did not get a sea of applause at the end of his show but when he ran out and around for his curtain call ... it happened.
RALPH LAUREN

"Scaled back!" Those were the first words I heard from surrounding press as I entered the show. Gone were the tremendous urns of flowers at the doorway.

Nevertheless the four rows of stadium seating going from A to J looked clean and neat and inviting and gave everyone a decent view.

The show opened with Karlie in a taupe V-neck cashmere cardigan over a light taupe silk cotton shirt and truffle wool flannel wide-legged cuffed pants (note: Ralph uses wide-legged pants for day and skinny for play and late day). Karlie was followed by Sanne in a taupe cashmere turtle neck and cardigan (twin sets? what a great new/old idea and how refreshing) over truffle flannel pants.
Ralph Lauren Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection.
There were top coats, fitted double-breasted coats, shirt jackets, thick-heeled shoes and boots, big Ricky bags in plaid.

There was a chocolate brown (although the program said loden) shearling coat on Yumi (#11). There was a ranch coat. There were some earth color tartan sweaters and matching tartan skirts, or Fair Isle sweaters and tartan separates.
Ralph Lauren Fall 2016 Ready-to-Wear Collection ...
There was fringe ... delightful and happy and not overdone!
There were ponchos.
There was clean straight hair.
There were some smashing velvets, and ruffled shirts, and brocades, and skinny stretch boot cut jeans.

It was a smashing collection of new and old favorites all done as new and all look as good and clean as the day.

Ralph deserved a standing ovation. He did not get one.


Contact Ellin here.