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 First day in Paris
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A view of Paris from a terrace on the Quai Anatole
France. Photo: JH.
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NYSD in Europe. In case you’ve
wondered, the travel and touring schedule on this trip has been
brutal in preventing us from posting on time each day. Furthermore
we had serious technical problems today that shut the site down
for a few hours. Our profuse apologies for both.
Paris. We arrived yesterday afternoon from Venice.
Traffic from Charles de Gaulle into the city is quite like traffic
from JFK into Manhattan: almost standstill. Weather: sunny and warm
with some light breezes. We’re in a small hotel off the Champs
overlooking a courtyard where yesterday a mother sparrow was flying
about anxiously because one of her little ones was on the courtyard
pavement, unable to fly. We were anxious too. She was about this
morning, still chirping anxiously although I couldn’t spot
the little one. This afternoon she was gone.
Today marked the launch of the American Friends of Versailles’ week
of festivities to raise funds for the planned restoration of the Pavillon
Frais (also called the Salon Frais or Pavillon
du Treillage) which was constructed during the reign of Louis
XV between 1715 and 1753.
The Pavillon was designed by Ange-Jacques Gabriel who
was also responsible for the Petit Trianon complex as well
as the Versailles Opera and the Place de la Concorde (originally
the Place de Louis XV). In its time it was used on warm days of spring
and summer by the Queen and the ladies of the court as a private
diningroom. The interior was decorated with walls of boiseries sculpted
with garlands and flowers, mirrors, a chimney and a Savonnerie carpet. Napoleon did
away with all of it in 1810 and the parterres and basins surrounding
three years later. Restoration began in 1980 but because of lack
of funds it fell into disrepair. American Friends of Versailles has
taken on the task.
The American relationship with Versailles began in the days of the
American Revolution when the Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette,
influenced by Benjamin Franklin and Thomas
Jefferson, allied themselves with the armies of George
Washington. The French aid to the Americans is often referred
to as one of the main elements in the economic disasters of the government
of the monarchy that led to the French Revolution and the end of
the monarchy.
After the execution of the King and Queen, Versailles remained essentially
unoccupied forevermore. In the early 1920s John D. Rockefeller
Jr. traveling through France discovered the fallen state
of the chateau, decrepit after more than a century of neglect.The
first thing Rockefeller did was to finance a new roof to keep
out the rain and snow that was already exacting a toll of destruction.
Since that time, the American interest in the restoration of Versailles
has been ongoing. For several decades following the Second World
War, the restoration was led by Gerald van der Kemp and
his American wife Florence. After the van der Kemps
retired, the spirit of their work has been taken up by Americans David
and Catherine Hamilton. NYSD readers may remember that three
years ago at this time we covered the dedication of the restored Trois
Fontaines of Louis XIV, a work completed by the Hamiltons and
their American Friends of Versailles. |
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Fresh flowers in the garden of the Baron
and Baroness Gerard de Waldner
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The business of monument restoration
is a long, laborioius and arduous, no small part of
which is in raising the millions needed to complete the task. Part
of Mrs. Hamilton’s fund-raising is this amazing gala week which
includes a number of receptions, luncheons, dinners and visits to
important French houses and institutions. This is the fun part, a
magnificent celebration capped off by the grand Le Bal de Marie-Antoinette held
in the highest honor of Madame Jacques Chirac and
Mrs. Laura Bush this coming Saturday night.
The week began this morning with a “Welcome Champagne Reception” hosted
by the Baron and Baroness Gerard de Waldner in the garden of
their hotel particulier on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. It was
a kind of homecoming reunion for many who’d attended the Trois Fontaines
events in 2004. Among others I met was Katie Stapleton from
Denver whose son currently occupies the American ambassador’s residence
down the road from the de Waldners. The reception was a casual affair. Drinks
were served -- orange juice, champagne and water, and some canapes. |
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Anne-Marie de Ganay and Matilda Stream
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Maurice Tobin, John Lee, and Nicole Salinger
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Sandy Yturbe, Joan Tobin, Billy Connor,
Libby Horn, and Catharine Hamilton
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Melinda and Bill Hassen with Catharine Hamilton
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Joan Tobin and Meilnda Hassen
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Olivier de Rohan and Baroness
Gerard de Waldner
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John and Alexandra Nichols
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Maurice Tobin, Jerome Fouan, John
Nichols, Joan Tobin, Baron Gerard de Waldner, and Nicole
Salinger
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Katie Stapleton, Patrick Coulson, and DPC
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John Lee, Maryann Carey de Edwards, Baron,
Sandy Yturbe, and David and Catharine Hamilton
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Catharine Hamilton with J.J.and Janet Cafaro
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Olivier de Rohan, Patrick Coulson, Baroness
de Waldner, Katie Stapleton, and Baron de Waldner
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At 1 pm part of the group moved on to the residence of President
and Madame Valery Giscard d’Estaing for a luncheon while
another group went over to a luncheon at the hotel particulier of Nicholas and Alexis
Kugel, brothers and owners of J. Kugel Antiquaires on the
Quai Anatole France.
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The
Kugel Brothers, Nicholas and Alexis
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I’d been told by several people over the years that the Kugels
have one of the greatest collections of art and antiques in the world. “Unbelievable” is
a commonly used word for it. It is difficult to know what that means,
of course, unless you see it. We saw it. Unbelievably beautiful,
sumptuous, complex artisanship, craftsmanship. A tapestry from the
late 1600s, for example, of a German astronomer demonstrating his
instruments to the Emperor in Beijing. JH caught it for the camera.
This four centuries old tapestry is in such brilliant condition that
I asked Alexis Kugel how it has retained its bold colors. “Probably
it was rolled up” and stored for much of that time.
The Kugel Collection is like a museum tour. I wanted to ask the price
of so many things, to find a way to comprehend its value in terms
of rarity and workmanship. But I thought of that famous remark of
JP Morgan’s about the cost of his yacht -- “if
you have to ask, you can’t afford it.” I am guessing
but undoubtedly many of the items have prices well into seven figures. |
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Late 17th Century tapestry of German astronomers
and a Chinese emperor
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These trips that we take for the NYSD exposes us to incredible
treasures that can only be acquired by museums or the very rich. Although
I am always curious, in conversations with dealers of this ilk it is
unrealistic to think they would reveal anything specific about their
business. Dealers at this level often acquire pieces which have never
been seen by the public before, pieces that may have been in families
for decades, even centuries. They are known for their discretion and
even at times acquire pieces that are seen only by very special (read:serious)
clients looking for something in particular.
I was told that the Kugels have many American clients who buy for themselves
and for museums.Touring their beautiful rooms, full of fascinating items, one
can dream, maybe only dream, but always marvel at the beauty that can be created
by the hands and imagination of man.
After our tour we were led to an elevator which took us up to a terrace
on the top of the building with a sweeping view of the Right Bank from the Crillon
and the Place de la Concorde to the Louvre and as far away as Montmarte. Waiters
in white served the orange juice, water and champagne. Lunch began with a tomato
and egg Spanish souffle, both light and slightly spicey, followed by a superb
chicken and rice dish, completed by what seemed to be a mousse-like version of
strawberry shortcake. Time for a nap after this one. |
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