11.9.10: Broadway actresses and Hollywood stars to the ladies who lunch

Broadway actresses and Hollywood stars to the ladies who lunch

Performa presented The Red Party, a dazzling gala benefit. Proceeds from The Red Party will directly support the creation of new Performa Commissions for the Performa 11 Biennial (November 1–21, 2011).

Arnold Scaasi has dressed them all—from Broadway actresses and Hollywood stars to the ladies who lunch and America’s First Ladies. Epitomizing the “lifestyles of the rich and famous,” his custom-made clothing evokes the height of elegance and craftsmanship from the late 1950s to the present.

In celebration of the acclaimed fashion designer and his recent gift to the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (MFA), of more than 100 outfits (to complement the MFA’s acquisition of his archive), the Museum is presenting Scaasi: American Couturier, from its opening on September 25th, through June 19, 2011, in the Loring Gallery.

Lady Colin Campbell, Arnold Scaasi, Glendina Weste, and Malcolm Rogers

The exhibition showcases 28 of Scaasi’s fabulous designs and explores his professional relationship with four women from among his extensive clientele, including Barbra Streisand, for whom he designed the seemingly transparent black tulle pants ensemble that she wore when accepting her 1969 Oscar for Funny Girl. The ensemble, now part of the Museum’s collection, will be displayed along with additional outfits created for the actress. Scaasi: American Couturier is made possible by the David and Roberta Logie Fund for Textile and Fashion Arts and the Loring Textile Gallery Exhibition Fund.

Scaasi’s richly tailored suits, cocktail dresses, and lavish evening gowns were statement pieces, often made for women with big personalities who lived grand lives, such as celebrities Elizabeth Taylor, Mary Tyler Moore, Sophia Loren, and Barbara Walters, and socialites Brooke Astor, Austine Hearst, Evelyn Lauder, Ivana Trump, and Gayfryd Steinberg. In addition, he created beautiful clothes for women who were suddenly thrown onto the world stage—First Ladies Mamie Eisenhower, Barbara Bush, Hillary Clinton, and Laura Bush—whose elegant Scaasi gowns helped them establish a strong public image. (Jacqueline Kennedy also wore outfits by the designer before becoming First Lady.) As well, Scaasi made gowns for debutantes, outfits for artist Louise Nevelson, and even, on one occasion, designed a more modern habit for an order of nuns in Pennsylvania.

Scaasi: American Couturier Exhibition at the MFA

Scaasi: American Couturier focuses on the designer’s opulent creations and his collaborative relationship with his clients, among them: actress Arlene Francis, New Yorker Joetta Norban, celebrity Barbra Streisand, and socialite Gayfryd Steinberg. The designer met Francis, a Broadway actress and television star, in 1955, shortly after he opened his custom design studio. He created numerous outfits for her public appearances. For her starring role on Broadway in Once More with Feeling (1958), he designed a show-stopping silver matelassé evening dress with a red satin evening coat lined in silver matelassé. As he recalls, it delighted the audience when Francis—complimented on the outfit by another character—replied, “Oh, this old thing—I only wear it to the supermarket.” On view in the exhibition, it is one of the more dramatic examples of his trademark: a dress made with the same fabric as the lining of the matching coat.

His 30-year working relationship with Barbra Streisand began shortly after he first saw her perform at a small downtown nightclub in New York City in 1963. The association continued through countless outfits made for Streisand’s personal wardrobe, nightclub performances, and appearances at Hollywood premieres and the Academy Awards. Scaasi: American Couturier features outfits designed for the star (with several design sketches), including a bold, black-and-yellow zig-zag-patterned “motorcycle outfit” created for Streisand’s movie musical, On a Clear Day You Can See Forever (1970).

In the 1970s through 1990s, as the influence of the 1960s counter-culture waned and opulence came back into fashion, Scaasi’s designs epitomized the extravagance of high society, especially during the Reagan era. Among the Nouvelle Society of New York was Gayfryd Steinberg, wife of billionaire financier Saul Steinberg, who commissioned many ensembles. Twelve of these, which she recently gave to the Museum, are featured, including a dramatic strapless gown of black, white, and grey organza petals, and a brilliant yellow satin ball gown, along with several design drawings.

“As one of the few American designers to specialize in custom-made clothing during the later part of the 20th century, Arnold Scaasi represents a true American couturier. The addition of his clothing and archive has taken the MFA’s collection of 20th-century fashion to a new level,” said Pamela Parmal, MFA’s David and Roberta Logie Curator of Textile and Fashion Arts.

Born Arnold Isaacs, the Montreal native studied at the prestigious Cotnoir-Capponi School of Design in Montreal and the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne in Paris, where he apprenticed at the House of Paquin before moving to New York City to work with renowned designer Charles James (1953–54). Shortly thereafter, “Isaacs” was turned backwards and became “Scaasi.” He gained recognition for his designs, and in 1955, the December cover of Vogue pictured a coat he designed for Dressmaker Casuals (a Seventh Avenue manufacturer), creating the buzz that helped him launch his ready-to-wear line the following year. In 1958, the designer won the prestigious Coty Fashion critics Award and his success was assured. In 1964, he opened his couture salon.

He mastered draping and created refined silhouettes that are intricately constructed, averaging approximately 120 working hours for each outfit and involving at least three craftswomen They are made of luxurious, flamboyant, expensive fabrics and furs, and feature asymmetrical necklines, pouffed sleeves, and billowy skirts in a wide range of bright colors. Fur-trimmed gowns, feather-lined coats over dresses of feathers, and jewel-encrusted dresses are some of the extraordinary confections that bear the SCAASI label.

Anna Bursaux, Ian Gillespie, Jennifer Gillespie, and Debra Lakind

Bill Cunningham, Christopher Muther, and Patrick Faloon

Arnold Scaasi and Malcolm Rogers

Frederic Sharf and Katie Getchell

Bruce Beal and Roberta Cohn

Carol Simpson and Bruce Metzler

Jean and Frederick Sharf

Phyllis Katz, Donald Katz, and Scott Black

Isabelle and Scott Black

Larry and Robert Cohn

Lauren Whitley, Wayne Nichols, Tomie Nagao, and Pam Parmal

Dave Weik and Diana Zlatanovski

Rachel LoVerme and Marko Rosenfeldt

Karen Rotenberg, Michael Rotenberg, and Malcolm Rogers

Last Monday, a week, The Lung Cancer Research Foundation hosted its 5th annual Lung Cancer Awareness Luncheon at the Waldorf Astoria. The luncheon and presentation was co-chaired by Laurie C. Carson, Pippa Groves Gerard, Kimberly Kravis Schulhof, and Michele Wolkoff.

Keynote speaker was Dr. Mark Socinski, Professor of Medicine at the University of North Carolina Chapel Hill, and a member of the Multidiscipinary Thoracic Oncology Program and Lineberg Comprehensive Cancer Center.

Back to front, L-R: Mark Socinksi M.D., Elizabeth Peabody, Shabnam Kazmi, Deborah Walsh, Marc Ladanyi M.D., Jim Dougherty MD, Laurie Carson, Julia Rowland PhD., and Kimberly Kravis Schulhof

Top to bottom, L-R: Danielle Englebardt, Lara Metz, Carol Weisman, Linda Fischbach, Bonnie Englebardt Lautenberg, Brett Heyman, Jean Steinberg, and Prasuna Wright

Lung Cancer survivor Joey Smith with his family

Top to bottom, L-R: Danielle Levine, Shafi Roepers, Caroline Greenwald, Melissa Meister, Alex Shuman, Rebekah McCabe, and Marcie Pantzer

Among the Guests: Donna Acquavella, Shelly Carr, Bill Carson, Eleanor Dejoux, Jim Dougherty, Tana Dye, Shoshanna Gruss, Elizabeth Howard, Coco Kopelman, Arie Kopelman, Marie-Josee Kravis, Bonnie Englebardt Lautenberg, Karen LeFrak, Kelly Mack, Chris Mack, Dudley Mason, Lisa McCarthy, Martha McLanahan, Lee Niven, Marcie Pantzer, Susan Patricof, Elizabeth Peabody, Shafi Roepers, Emilia Saint-Amand, Barbara Winston, Eleanor Ylvisaker.

Kim Konigsberg, Joseph Shapiro, Jimmie Holland, and Elizabeth Peabody

Antonia Dubrul and Sydney Shuman

Susan Tisch-Allen and Judy Spiegel

Kimberly Kravis Schulhof, Liz Groves, Pippa Gerrard, and Laure Sudreau-Rippe

Karen Glover, Kelley Johnston, Lala Flemming, and Yana Rowley

Anne Nordeman and Martha McLanahan

Deborah Walsh and Helen Miller CEO Cancer Care

Arie and Coco Kopelman

Laure Sudreau-Rippe and Laurie Carson

Arlene Reed and Michele Wolkoff

Susan Stevenson Woodward and Clelia Zacharias

Ellen Schnoninger and Shawn Warren

Meg Kirkpatrick, Bill Carson, and Wendy Routh

Chris Mack, Charlotte Blechman, and Rebekah McCabe

Lisa McCarthy and Wendy Breck

Carol Weisman and Lesley Shulhof

Jim Dougherty MD and LCRF 2010 Scientific Merit Award Winner Donald Kufe, M.D

This past Saturday night Performa, a non-profit multidisciplinary arts organization dedicated to exploring the critical role of live performance in the history of twentieth century art and to encouraging new directions in performance for the 21st century, presented The Red Party, a dazzling gala benefit, at 508 West 37th Street.

With actor Alan Cumming as host, and honoring visual artist Shirin Neshat, The Red Party also featured special performances by Fassbinder actress Barbara Sukowa and Yvonne Rainer’s group, as well as Padded Cell, a dessert installation created by food artist Jennifer Rubell. Attire for the evening was red, as you might have guessed, and designer Karelle Levy of KRELwear was on hand to create one-of-a-kind Quickie Couture pieces for guests. Proceeds from The Red Party will directly support the creation of new Performa Commissions for the Performa 11 Biennial (November 1–21, 2011).

In 2005, Performa launched New York's first performance biennial, Performa 05, followed by Performa 07 (2007), and Performa 09 (2009). In 2011, Performa will present its fourth biennial, Performa 11 (November 1–21, 2011).

The Red Party featured décor inspired by the Russian Constructivists of the 1920s, including a remarkable set and banners commissioned by Performa, and handmade by artists Kyle Goen and Zach Rockhill.

The Red Party began with dessert, performances, and dancing with music by DJ Tikka Masala and DJ Pierce Jackson. There was also be a special performance by Chica Vas and Sexual Energies School: Leningrad, featuring Zach Layton, Nick Hallett, Brian Chase, and Mike Skinner.

Artists in attendance included Vanessa Beecroft, Sanford Biggers, Phong Bui, Jules De Balincourt, Carroll Dunham, Simon Fujiwara, Kyle Goen, Pierre Huyghe, Joan Jonas, Jesper Just, Jon Kessler, Ragnar Kjartansson, Kalup Linzy, Robert Longo, as well as Ryan McNamara, Julie Mehretu, Wangechi Mutu, Lorraine O’Grady, Adam Pendleton, Giuseppe Penone, Zach Rockhill, Carolee Schneemann, Laurie Simmons, and Lorna Simpson, among others.

PERFORMA was established by RoseLee Goldberg in 2004. More information is available at www.performa-arts.org.