Saturday night I went to Paola’s, which recently moved to a new location near the Hotel Wales at 1295 Madison Avenue at 92nd Street.
The new location is a roomy corner spot with high ceilings, where Joanna’s (restaurant) used to be. Moving to this location is gutsy, given this economy, and the fact that it is near Vico, another popular neighborhood restaurant. Many times if you walk into a neighborhood restaurant and you are not a 'regular,' they don’t even look your way.
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| Stefano Marracono and Paola Bottero. |
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However, the neighborhood restaurants in Carnegie Hill feel much more accessible than other neighborhoods. On Saturday night at 7:30, Paola’s was packed, and Paola and her son, Stefano, were working the room to make sure everyone felt right at home. It’s nice when the owner of a restaurant is actually there working hard. It shows that they care. A simple point, but overlooked in many establishments.
The menu at Paola’s specializes in Italian food with some amusing pasta dishes mixed in. One of the appetizer specials on Saturday night was carciofi ala giudea (Roman Jewish-style crispy artichokes). Whenever I see this on the menu, I always order it. Nothing beats fried artichokes with freshly squeezed lemon juice. A pasta dish, which was exceptional, was one with cauliflower ragu breadcrumbs. There were some olives mixed in, adding a verdant flavor, and the breadcrumbs gave the pasta a heartier texture.
For dessert, order the chocolate mousse or the apple turnover (or both). Apple turnovers are retro desserts which are uncommon on dessert menus. The version at Paola’s was warm, flaky and the perfect ending to a delicious meal. [Paola’s [1]]
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