New York heating up

Looking towards Fifth Avenue from within Central Park. 4:30 PM. Photo: JH.

September 18, 2009. Sunny and cooler, yesterday in New York.

Fashion Week is drawing to a close. Today is the birth anniversary of Greta Garbo, the Swedish born MGM film star of the 20s and 30s. She was born Greta Gustafson in Stockholm, Sweden in 1905. MGM's founder Louis B. Mayer “discovered” her after seeing a film she’d made with the Finnish director Mauritz Stiller. Garbo was a chunky young woman (she was almost 19) when Mayer first met her. He insisted that she slim down measurably. He then he brought her and Stiller to Hollywood and put them under contract.


	Greta Gustafson, renamed Greta Garbo, and Mauritz Stiller on board the SS Dreottningholm in 1925,bound for the United States and Hollywood.

Stiller only lasted a couple of years before he was fired (for intransigence with the bosses). Garbo remained and became the most popular female star with the female audience worldwide. She had a mystique with the audience that was enhanced by her having once allegedly muttered: “I vant to be alone ...” She left the business in 1941, unintentionally, when her contract (she was the studio’s highest paid star at the time) expired.

Although she’d made bids to return to the screen, it never happened. She spent the rest of her life living in New York in a large and comfortable apartment on East 52nd Street and the River. Well into the 1980s she could often be seen around town on personal walking/exercising tours (looking very plain and partly concealed with hats and bandanas and collars). Garbo-spotting was a favorite New York hobby for two generations of New Yorkers.

She was very social among whomever she wished to socialize – a hostess would never invite Garbo to dine without first showing her the guest list for her to vet or refuse. She traveled to Europe frequently where she was entertained royally, and to Los Angeles where she liked to spend the month of June in Beverly Hills – often staying with her friend Jean Howard. She never married although her name was linked with certain men until her late fifties, and privately with certain women all her life.

She died at 84 in 1990 and left an estate of more than $20 million, accumulated from brilliant investments made with her film earnings (this was in the days before residuals of any kind), much of which had been advised from her last great man friend George Schlee who died in 1964.

Garbo at MGM in 1925, age 20; and 25 years later, now "retired" from the screen, although already a legend forever.

Last night at Doubles, Quest Magazine held a cocktail reception hosted by this writer and Chris Meigher, the owner/publisher of Quest for the annual Quest 400 List. This list was begun by this writer for Quest sixteen years ago. It was originally the “New 400,” a play on the original Mrs. Astor’s 400 from a century before.

Since then it has morphed into a habit as The Quest 400 and if you can count more than 400 names on it today, then you know how to count.

Last night’s cocktail was, like the List, in the tradition of old New York, a real cocktail party – with lots of drinks, canapés (pigs in a blanket) and talk talk talk. A good time was had by all.

Martha Glass, Nina Griscom, and Tom Fallon

Bob and Beth Hardwick with friends

Sabrina Forsythe and Howard Clark

Jeffrey Lane and his uncle Lionel Larner

Harry Benson and Chuck Whittingham

Jack and Katherine Bryan

Barbara de Portago

John Richardson and Boaz Mazor

Eleonora Kennedy with Mr. and Mrs. Robin Geddes

Tom McCarter and Frannie Scaife

Nikki Haskell

Kimberly DuRoss

Terry Allen Kramer and Nick Simuneck

Taki

Parker Ladd, Marjorie Reed Gordon, and Arnold Scaasi

Sharon Hoge with Robert and Blaine Caravaggi

Don Miller and Marc Lewinstein

Susna Fales-Hill and Jim Mitchell

Renee and Richard Steinberg

Jim Brodsky

Polly Onet

Martha Glass with her son and friend

Marc Rosen

Susan Fales-Hill, Muffy Miller, and Jackie Weld Drake

Marcia and Georgina Schaeffer

Grace Meigher with Marianne and John Castle

Amy Fine Collins and Peter Lyden

Evelyn Tompkins

Marian Koltai-Levine and Peggy Siegal

Doug Cramer and Ann Rapp

Mrs. Scribner and Mark Gilbertson

Eric Javits and Alexandra Lebenthal

Emilia Fanjul, Chris Meigher, and Amanda Meigher

Jesse Araskog and Nancy Missett

John Glass and Amy Hoadley

Frederick Anderson and Felicia Taylor

Legends. Wednesday afternoon after the Oscar show I went up to Kenneth Rendell’s gallery on 77th and Madison to get a preview of an exhibition Ken is launching of documents and letters from principal historical characters from the Second World War.

This exhibit is being shown in conjunction with the publication of Ken’s book “World War II; Saving the Reality/A Collector’s Vault” (with forward by Doris Kearns Goodwin).

A little background on the book. Ken Rendell has been a collector and purveyor of historical documents, items and paraphernalia all his life since he started collecting early American coins as a kid. Aside from his thoroughly riveting autographed documents emporium here in New York, a great deal of his business is in creating personal libraries to the taste of very rich men and women who collect.

Ken Rendell

He has also built a private World War II museum with his collections up in Boston. The museum is open to the public by appointment. It is free although they retain the right to refuse anyone admittance. There have been some – mainly well-known people, and for reasons having to do with moral principles.

This book, which is a compendium of the museum’s collection, is the closest thing to an interactive print publication that I have ever seen.

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	Click to order World War II; Saving the Reality/A Collector’s Vault.

For example, there are photocopies of correspondence by many individuals who figured in the war including Hitler, Churchill, Roosevelt, Montgomery, Eisenhower, Stalin, Mussolini, Patton. They’re all found on various pages, neatly folded and inserted in sleeves, to be removed and read and replaced. Eisenhower’s pencil-written letter to his wife.

Rommel’s letter to his wife from the front. Montgomery’s personal message to his staff before the Battle of El-Alamein. George S. Patton’s letter to his father, written when he was at West Point, regretting the invention of the machine gun because, he felt it would end wars forever. Anne Frank’s father’s letters after the War. The book is a treasure trove.

Some readers may recall our trip to London last June and our visit to the Churchill War Museum in Whitehall. That experience was the closest one could come to a sense of the physical reality of those working along with Churchill conducting the war against Germany. Ken Rendell’s book, is the second closest, and one you can keep by your side to read and to ruminate over.

George Patton, then a West Point cadeet, wrote to his father in a handwritten letter signed on June 25, 1904: “I am very much disheartened by the wonderful efficiency of the modern rifle and there is now talk of them making a gun which fires 20 shots a second. I don’t exactly see how war is to be carried on against such obstacles but...I will try to...still be a great general, but when I am, I would bury the man who invented rapid fire guns and by doing so ruined the beauty of war. Still the story of a rapid fire gun may be entirely a myth. I hope it is for if it is war is still feasible and there will be more wars.”

Benito Mussolini, the future Italian dictator, wrote this letter in 1908 when he was debt-ridden and unemployed: "Life in this emi-wild village of my birth is beginning to weigh on me and to get away from it, I got an idea...."

Franklin Roosevelt's letter to his Secretary of the Navy in 1937 on the observance of Navy Day which had been first declared by Theodore Roosevelt.

A handwritten letter from General Erwin Rommel to his wife from Hitler's headquarters, September 5, 1939, four days after Germany's attack on Poland began. “The letter of 8-29 arrived yesterday. Many thanks. Now the Führer is here with us, and you will have heard that he was on the Vistula. 400 km on dusty roads, 10 hrs.’ ride. The troops are making a terrific impression; the Führer is in the best spirits. Am now present at all meals and will be having a talk with the Führer this week ...

Winston Churchill's message to French President Paul Reynaud on June 5, 1940, the day after 338,226 troops were evacuated from Dunkirk, the same day the German Panzers began their direct attack on Paris. Paris fell nine days later and France fell to the Nazis eight days after that.

A letter from Eleanor Roosevelt to a young man who was about to attend Officer's Training School, July 18, 1942.

A request dated February 20, 1943 when Lt. (jg) John F. Kennedy made a request to be transferred to a Motor Torpedo Boat Squadron in the South Pacific. (He was transferred to PT-109.)

The original manuscript of British Field Marshal Montgomery's message (to be read to more than 150,000 troops) on October 1943 before the decisive battle of El Alamein in Egypt.

A letter from General Dwight D. Eisenhower to his wife Mamie, dated June 9, 1944, three days after the D-Day landings.

Erwin Rommel's letter to his wife written the same day Eisenhower wrote to his wife 3 days after the D-Day landings: “A lot of hardship has been our lot since our parting, and how much more hardship may still come? We are doing what we can, but the enemy’s superiority in nearly all regards is overwhelming ...”

A typewritten program with a guest list of Americans for a Christmas Eve Dinner in 1944, prepared by the American advisors sent to organize Chinese forces against the Japanese and signed by Mao and 13 other leaders, including Chou En-Lai.

Hitler's signed document dated March 30, 1945, headed "secret" with revisions in Hitler's hand (shown in single quotation marks) demanding that every man no matter his age fight the final Battle of Berlin: "...Only...fanatic determination can guarantee the success of the coming fight. Then the battle before Berlin must and will end with a decisive defensive victory." One month later to the day he and his bride of two days, Eva Braun, killed themselves in his Berlin bunker.

A letter from Anne Frank's father Otto, written two years after her death in a concentration camp.

Harry Truman's letter written five years after he left the Presidency to Norman Cousins, editor of the Saturday Review explaining how he came to the decision to drop the Atom Bomb on Japan.

Our fashion coverage is coming close to an end (we’ll have the last of our coverage on Monday’s Diary). In the meantime, Jill Lynne and her camera took in quite a few of the shows for us during the past few days. Here are her comments and conclusions (and pictures):

Fashion Trends Spring 2010, Resort or Anytime. Global Warming. Perhaps that is the reason for the increase in All-Season-Dressing -- the dominance of attire that can grace a spring day or layer into winter. Or is it just the economy, demanding that a fashionable investment be maxed out? This season’s runway sported garments that were easily transformable to year-round wardrobes.

Fashion's Night Out with Catherine Malandrino (left) and Designer Charles Noland (with sister) at their respective shops.

Hi-Voltage at Ports 1961.

Olivia Palermo / Ports.

Ivanka Trump / Ports.

Montgomery Frazier / Ports.

Ports 1961 finale ...

Midnight Blue is indeed the “New Black” – complimenting any complexion. And prevailing in elegance. Saturated hues of neon orange, citron, lime green, golds and neon pinks, with sprightly floral patterns also illuminate the scene.

Frothy, translucent, very feminine fabrics that dance with the slightest movement, bits of chiffon, wisps of feathers, very floaty ...

Models in Monique L'Huillier.

ML rear design detailing.

Shoshanna Lonstein Gruss, Tinsley Mortimer, and Ali Wise at Charlotte Ronson's show.

Charlotte Ronson models in a shorts suit and sheer knee-length tights ...

Jamee Gregory and Ivana Trump at Zang Toi.

Mauricio Velez and Mary Jorgan (wearing Thierry Mugler) at Zang Toi.

Miss Universe, Lucia Hwong Gordon, and Patrick MacDonald at Zang Toi.

Zang Toi closes out the show ...

Joan Rivers and Scott Currie at Dennis Basso.

Nikki Haskell, Marty Richards, and Beverly Johnson at Dennis Basso.

Jamee Gregory and Barbara Tober at Basso.

Barbara Winston and Stephanie Winston Wolkoff at Basso.

Dennis Basso ...

Asymmetry has grown in importance – whether it is for a short cocktail frock or a red-carpet evening gown. Sheer, knee-high tights, lacy or plain, and very high stilettos, reminiscent of boot detailing are everywhere.

The hippie-chick ‘60s a la “Hair” trend is still somewhat evident – usually complimented by flats. And the influence of Spanish design is the highlight of the season, from the streets of Paris to the New York tents, with cropped jackets – to the waist, or higher, a return of shoulder pads, and pronounced epaulets.

All the designers are featuring a new wearability – with less designed as a statement only for their shows and more for their true audience. Pragmatism predominates!