Tuesday, August 28, 2018

Home From Camp

A guest's caricature of their host Jules Bache in his guestbook at his Great Camp on Upper Saranac Lake, New York, on August 17th, 1925.
Tuesday, August 28, 2018. Back to the Big Heat in New York. Yesterday it reached to the top of the 80s with a Reel Feel, thanks to humidity that took us up over 100 degrees. It was 85 degrees at 10 pm. And so it is.

Today we’re reaching back into our archive, inspired by a reader who read this particular Diary when it first appeared in July three years ago. It had been inspired by a guestbook I had the good fortune of receiving from a man who bought one of the legendary Great Camps in the Adirondacks. The email I received last week told how our reader coincidentally had been invited this summer to stay at one of the Great Camps, and wrote to tell us about it.

Frankly, I had forgotten about the piece until we were reminded by this thoughtful reader. However, we looked it up and were immediately reminded of the story; and how it all came about, which is better told in the following. I’ve left the date and the weather on this one because, as you can see, although we may forget from year to year, we’ve been having this “extreme” weather for a while now ...
Wednesday, July 7, 2015. Very warm and humid, yesterday in New York, with a late afternoon shower, brief but cooling.

John Loeb’s maternal great-grandfather Adolph Lewisohn.
Heat, humidity, and all, I nevertheless went down to Michael’s to lunch with John Loeb. The former ambassador (to Denmark) is currently engaged in writing his memoirs. Being a scion – one of the last – of one of the great Our Crowd  families of German Jews who distinguished themselves here in New York in the 19th and early 20th century in banking, industry, and philanthropy, John is also related to several of them including the Lehmans and the Lewisohns as well as the Loebs. I pointed out to him an article I wrote for the current (July) issue of Quest about lake resorts and specifically those in the Adirondacks.

These private cottages were called Great Camps and were located on several Adirondack lakes. It so happened that on Upper Saranac Lake there were several members of these families who had Great Camps, as did John D. Rockefeller Sr. and Marjorie Meriweather Post.

John Loeb’s maternal great-grandfather Adolph Lewisohn had one of the most spectacular Great Camps called “Prospect Point.” John was just a child when Mr. Lewisohn died at the age of 89 (he died during his annual stay at Prospect Point).

John recalled how during these one-month stays at the lake, every week there would be fifteen to twenty-five guests – friends and family members --  who would come to stay; and there would be parties as well as a plethora of activities by the lake, on the lake, and around the lakes.
Prospect Point Camp boathouse, today. The camp was designed by William L. Coulter in the Adirondack Rustic style.
Here is the article I wrote for this month’s Quest on the life in these Great Camps:

In mid-20th century, the Great American Middle Class took its vacation firstly in the first two weeks of July.  Not everybody of course, but that was a popular date. The working man of the house had two weeks off, and July was right in the middle of the year. Growing up in western Massachusetts, as I did, we were three and four hour drives from the beaches of Connecticut, Rhode Island and Cape Cod, but lakes were often much nearer, and could be visited for even a day or two. My primary experience of perfect summer days were on a lake much closer by. Lakes were a family habit, as they remain for many Americans.

I had an aunt and uncle, my favorites, who owned what to this little boy was a grand cottage on a small fresh water lake near Brimfield called Little Alum Pond. The cottage had a small dock which was given a fresh coat of battleship grey paint every year. You could fish or dive (or mainly jump) from it, and there were old patched up inner tubes in which to sit and loll in the water for hours. There was a rowboat the kid was allowed to take out, and a boat with a motor with for the adults to drive. To a little boy, this was even cooler than to be able to drive a car.

The drinking water came from a hand pump not far from the shoreline, and there was even an outhouse in the back of the property when there were too many guests spending the weekend. Everything was a new adventure attached specifically to being on the lake.

Meals were at a big round family table. There was a fire going in the fireplace at night on days when it was rainy and chilly. My aunt liked to play the piano, and sometimes people sang along (not memorable). And nightimes were very quiet, except for the sounds of nature.

Lakes are generally quiet places, or they were back in the day, except for the occasional motor boat. The atmosphere was one of silence, and encouraging to the contemplative. The tension in the outside world, particularly the tension back home when all was not copasetic, was replaced with a kind of peace that this kid could — and still does — equate with the joy of jumping in the lake every morning after breakfast (you had to wait an hour first, however).
Little Alum Pond revisited.
The social culture of a lake society is quite different from the sea and the mountains. There was a time earlier in our history — from the mid-19th century up until the Second World War when lakes, specifically those in the Adirondacks, were fashionable. Society went to the lakes in the Adirondacks. That was truly getting away from it all. Many properties often had hundreds of acres, even thousands of forest land. The roster might include a dozen guests or maybe more. In the late 19th, early 20th century, the summer schedule for these same families might also include Newport and sundry beach communities in the northeast corridor or along the coast of Maine.

The great interest in the Adirondacks as a “vacation” spot for the rich began after the Civil War when the Industrial Revolution was roaring economic progress and much new private wealth was being created. The coming the of the railroads added that wish. Whitneys, Vanderbilts and Astors acquired huge tracts of land, many of which included lakes. William C. Whitney was one of the largest of the landholders. The remains of his acquisitions, still numbering in the thousands of acres, are still held by the fourth wife of Whitney’s grandson, Marylou Whitney Hendrickson.

In the Adirondacks, the rich lake people built properties which included guest cottages, barns, garages, stables, workshops, storage, staff quarters, as well as elaborate boathouses for their inboard motor cruisers. These residential complexes were classified as “Great Camps.”
The original Benjamin A. Muncil boat house at Camp Topridge, the retreat of Marjorie Meriweather Post.
The most famous of these great camps — to Americans (and still extant) — is TopRidge, the retreat of Marjorie Meriweather Post Close Hutton Davies May, the Post Cereals heiress who had multiple residences — all of which were palatial — including an equally regal sailing yacht Sea Cloud. TopRidge was built in 1920, around the same time she acquired her second husband, E. F. Hutton. It was with Mr. Hutton that she also expanded her father’s cereal empire, acquiring several other brands and creating the General Foods Corporation.
The guest beds at Topridge.
Mrs. Post — who also built and owned Mar-a-Lago in Palm Beach — loved to entertain. Her houses were filled with friends and families where she was CEO and chief planner of her the  entertainment committee. The guests went to camp at TopRidge, Post-style.

Different lakes in the Adirondacks drew different crowds. There were the tycoons of the age, like Mr. Whitney, as well as the old New York society and their confreres from Boston and Philadelphia, and the aristocratic banking families. People built in areas near their friends.

From the late 1880s up through 1920s, the Great Camps
of Saranac Lake set a new tone in luxury with massive hunting lodges designed by important and creative architects who were sensitive to the needs, the client and the changing times. Camps are not mansions — although they may compete in terms of square footage. They are for “roughing it,” Society-style. A lot of wood and stone and fireplaces with a lot of wood — paneled walls, floors, the furniture.
Camp Katia on Upper St. Regis Lake.
The boathouse and one of the cottages at Knollwood Club on Lower Saranac Lake.
Pine Tree Point on Upper St. Regis Lake.
Saranac attracted a number of the Our Crowd, great Jewish families of New York. Society in those days was exclusive, in terms of “excluding” usually along the lines of religion (Protestant, Catholic, Jewish, with the former reigning). Although these men who were mainly bankers and financiers, who did serious business with their WASP counterparts and corporate executives, they very often socialized separately, and people naturally built to be near their friends.

Saranac had the great camps of men such as Otto Kahn, Levi P. Morton – who had been Vice-President of the United States, Joselph Seligman, Carl Loeb, Jules Bache, Adolph Lewisohn, Guggenheim, and Rockefeller, to name only a few. The style of their Great Camps exceeded the old fashioned tented residences of the earlier lake visitors.

An excellent example was the property of Adolph Lewisohn, Prospect Point which had more than 20 major structures including six lodges, 2 boathouses, smaller cabins, staff quarters and support buildings. Lewisohn’s Great Camp was used once a year for a month-long stay accompanied by a staff of 40 which included a major-domo, a barber, a caddy, a chess player, a singing teacher and two chauffeurs.
Prospect Point Camp Main Lodge.
Prospect Point boathouse.
Born into a banking family in Hamburg, Germany in 1861, Adolph Lewisohn came to America when he was sixteen to join his older brothers who were then in the mercantile business here in New York. That same year the teenager met one Thomas A. Edison, an enterprising inventor who was developing several inventions involving electricity, including the lightbulb. Young Lewisohn was so impressed with the “technology” of this inventor that he saw the future and persuaded his brothers to invest in copper mines. Which they did. From that foresight the family fortune was born not only for his brothers but for himself and many others.

Having made his fortune by the time he was in his early forties, he decided to spend more of his time and money on other pursuits, such as philanthropy, music (he could sing arias in several languages — which he did for his guests on the occasion of his 82nd birthday). He promoted music for the public and built Lewisohn Stadium at City College to produce free concerts.  Much of his major philanthropy focused on helping underprivileged and orphaned children, and on prison reform.
The majestic view of Upper Saranac Lake from the Main Lodge of Prospect Point.
Mr. Lewisohn died at Prospect Point at age 89 in 1938.  The New York Times ran an obituary on the first page recounting the man’s great philanthropy and his talent for enjoying life. He was proud of the fact that he worked all his life, and that he was able to share his wealth in a variety of ways that made for a better life for the community. With that work, he had had, in his words, “a happy life.” He also had the talent for living. And the means to live it well.

Jules Bache with daughter Kathryn, later known to the world of NewYork, London and Paris as Kitty (Mrs. Gilbert) Miller.
Another remarkable figure of Lewisohn’s era who kept a Great Camp called Wenonah Lodge on Upper Saranac Lake was Jules S. Bache, an investment banker.

Wenonah was set on hundreds of acres with substantial lakefront and seven main buildings. Bache, who backed Walter P. Chrysler in his auto manufacturing business, and was president of Dome Mines (in which the Lewisohns also held a substantial share of stock), had a brokerage firm, J.S. Bache & Company which was outranked at the time by only Merrill Lynch (then known as Merrill, Lynch, Pierce, Fenner & Smith).

Bache was also a great art collector (the substantive part of which now belongs to the Metropolitan Museum of Art), including works by Raphael, Rembrandt, Titian, Durer, Velazquez, Bellini, Botticelli — the most famous of which was Goya’s “Boy with Cats” (also popularly known as the “Red Boy”).
Wenonah was set on hundreds of acres with substantial lakefront and seven main buildings.
Bache was a much flashier figure compared to many of his Adirondack neighbors. He moved easily through various social sets in New York and London, including theatre people. His daughter Kathryn, always known as Kitty, married a British producer and theater owner, Gilbert Miller, famous in his time on both sides of the Atlantic. The guest lists at Wenonah, besides family members (he had two daughters), included heads of state as well as stars of stage and screen, and girls from the Ziegfeld Follies.

Several years ago, through serendipitous means, I happened to acquire a copy of the Bache guest book from Camp Wenonah, dating from 1897 through 1944 (the year of Jules Bache’s death). It’s a thick object, cover nearly a half century of a man’s life, and contains not only the names and addresses of the guests but many comments as well. Most interesting are the “illustrative” comments, drawn by clever talented guests reflecting on the experience of being a guest of Mr. Bache and his wife Florrie, as you can see from these examples.
Camp Wenonah Guest Book cover.
The first page of the guest book of Camp Wenonah, July 17, 1897, signed Mr. and Mrs. Jules S. Bache, Miss Hazel Joy Bache + maid; Miss Kathryn King Bache + nurse, four maids, servants, guides. Hazel Joy Bache was the grandmother of our friend Joy Ingham.
The first guest message in the Bache guestbook of the same time.
The allure of the lakes and the woods, besides an opportunity to “get away from it all,” was enhanced by its suggestion of a simpler life, a way of life familiar to all those generations who visited there. These were people all of whom were born  in the last half of the 19th century into a world without cars, electricity, telephones and speed in travel. So there was a rich nostalgia in “roughing it” because everyone, including city-dwellers knew about that.

Life was purer, as was the water they drank and swam in. Away from all the rushing elements of city life, guests and residents had a sense of something more restful, and a physical environment that was healthier. Leisure was truly leisure. Time and distance limited the social interaction. Even today, more than a century after the area was settled by these affluent summer people, it remains essentially private, which is its own great luxury. Where, for example, in the Hamptons communities there is the frequently intense socializing often with vast crowds, the cottage/camp life was, and still is focused almost exclusively on the house and the family and their guests.
A guest's illustration and messages of a week at Wenonah in July 1925.
Illustration of a guest in the Bache guestbook, September 1925.