Monday, September 17, 2012

Schulenberg's Page - Fall 1929

Fall 1929. The news of the collections from Paris.
Illustrations by Bob Schulenberg

... Winter clothes are going to be about the most uncasual you ever saw. Except for those few lucky individuals whose measurements check well against a list of perfect proportions, the women who plan to wear any French clothes, or copies ... are going to have a struggle ...

Patou says we are supposed to look like spindles .... He puts daytime skirts far enough below the knees to get a long-legged look; evening dresses hit the ankles ... touch the floor at the back ... some of the evening wraps trail the ground ... in elegance with hems edged with silver fox.

There are few extremes in the new Molyneux collection. Molyneux skirts are just sufficiently longer than last season’s to cover the in-curve of the calf. Waistlines are placed everywhere; the trickiest dresses have a belt at the normal waistline and another a few inches below.
No one is quite like Schiaparelli. Who else would think of going the whole hog on this high-waistline business, and of putting the leather belts on tweed skirts a few inches below the top? The skirts have no plackets but are run through at the top with an elastic two inches wide.

... Schiaparelli blouses are of heavy crepe de Chine, instead of tricot .... Sometimes the scarf is separate .... The knitted sweaters are grander than usual .... There are some exciting blouses of smock blue toile de soie, made in one with the panties that serve as petticoat and underwear at the same time.

... Something will have to be done about girdles. If skirts lengthen, many will roll their stocks as of yore and discard girdles and belts altogether. It is certain that the slight roll that occurs even around the waists of slim people who wear girdles will never, never do if waistlines are in again.
... Paris mannequins are wearing their hair waved softly back from the face, with clusters of curls, or other softness, either below and behind the ears or extending all the way across the back. I wouldn’t be surprised even if frizzy hair and bangs returned upon us. It wouldn’t happen immediately.

Fashion from the New Yorker, August 1929.

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