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Lunching
in Bryant Park. 1:45 PM. Photo: JH.
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Weather
reports warning of hurricane Isabel, while in
New York today the brightest September sun embraced the city
with almost crystal clear air making the canyons along the
great avenues shine clear down to Battery Park (or thereabouts).
At 11 AM I went over to Bryant Park again, this time to see the debut
of the “new” Bill Blass collection as created by the
company’s new designer Michael Vollbracht.
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Nina
Griscom
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It came as somewhat
of a surprise to the fashion world when it was announced several
months ago that Michael Vollbracht would be succeeding Lars
Nilsson as the new creative force of the Bill Blass company.
The company had been purchased from the late great designer several
years with the intention of keeping his fashion legacy – one
of the most successful in American fashion history – alive.
This objective has been a challenge to all including
the famous Blass ladies who’ve sworn by him for
decades. A lot of them were there today. I sat next to
one, a muse, in fact, Nina Griscom, looking
fresh as a daisy, the Manhattan equivalent of the scrubbed-face
farmgirl. (You had to be there.) Louise Grunwald was
there, another muse; Gayfryd Steinberg, Anne
Bass, Brooke Hayward Duchin, Jamee Gregory, Anne Slater,
Cece Cord, Ellin Saltzman, Judy Peabody, Casey Ribicoff (who
is also an executrix of the Blass estate), Helen
O’Hagan, to name only a few of his myriad “girls.” None
knew what to expect, only what they had always relied
on: the famous Blass classic elegance, the sportif dallying
with the silk taffeta and the chiffon; the clean cut
snappy lines that assure a kind of tossed off sophistication.
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Annette
Tapert and friend
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Well,
they got what they came for. From the moment the
great Pat Cleveland first sauntered down the runway
in her stilettos, with her most delicate ambling strut, all set
out in her Blass (by Michael Vollbracht), tippy-toe stopping here,
and there, along the way, sending a tiny wave of her fingers or
brushing a little utter self-confidence our way, the house broke
out in heavy applause and cheering.
He did it. Michael Vollbracht did it. A gorgeous, rich, elegant collection
of day and evening wear in the spirit of Blass. When it was over
Nina Griscom said, “they’ve finally created the kind
of clothes these ladies like to wear.” Meaning, I presumed,
the aforementioned plus the hundreds of thousands more all over America
who loved Bill Blass.
Michael Vollbracht, if you don’t know, has
had a long and esteemed career as a fashion illustrator,
fashion designer (he had his own fashion house a number
of years ago producing memorable – and now collectible
one-of-a-kind sort of clothes, very reminiscent of his
illustration: rich, elegant, sophisticated and uniquely
individual). Which describes the artist fairly well – although
I don’t know if “rich” has fit into
the scenario most of the time.
He’s
very popular with a wide variety of people including some of the
world’s most famous (not to say difficult) women. He’s
always been known as a true artist, a man who pursued his own interests
and passions. He’s also a visual memoirist, having produced
a highly engaging (and illustrated) sorta memoir (with an introduction
by his old friend Bill Blass) a number of years ago, called Nothing
Sacred; Comments and Cartoons. You can still buy it on Amazon.
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Michael
Vollbracht closes out the show
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So, to see the
artist/designer, now a mature, or at least more mature, gentleman
commit himself to the design sensibilities of another, was already
a curious thing. And what a great surprise!! There was heavy applause
and cheering at the end of the show when the now seriously dark
grey suited Vollbracht came out for his bow. And as he exited,
he turned and lightly touched the BB logo on the back wall, as
if a gesture sent to heaven.
Afterwards I met up with JH who was busy
with the Digital outside the tents, taking
in the scene, including the corps of identically pink-suited,
black net stockings ladies with little black hats, who
were distributing the Star while their new editor-in-chief, Bonnie
Fuller, who was giving interviews to the media.
We went and got some sandwiches to eat in the park which
has lots of tables for people to lunch, or just relax
and watch the passing parade. And what a parade it was – from
the office workers, the business people, the fashion
people, the press, the local characters with their local
color (I saw a man, bald on top with long day-glo red
hair and a chartreuse bushy moustache). Something for
everyone; New York fashion, the fashion in New York. |
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Louise
Grunwald
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Gigi
Mortimer
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Gillian
and Patty Hearst
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Tiffany
Dubin
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Sharon
Hoge
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Bettina
Zilkha
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Cece
Cord and Anne Bass
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Adrienne
Vittadini and Cathie Hardwick
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L.
to r.: Casey Ribicoff, Brooke Hayward Duchin, and
Alex Hitz; Jeanne Lawrence.
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Kimberly
Rockefeller
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Backstage,
the gals congratulate Michael Vollbracht
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Bonnie
Fuller and the Pink Ladies (from the front and back)
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