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Looking
east across Bryant Park towards The New York Public Library.
12:15 AM. Photo: JH.
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| Over at Bergdorf’s last Thursday
night they had a booksigning for Ellen Graham and
her new book, The Bad and the Beautiful (Abrams,
publishers, with introduction by John Loring).
Ellen Graham has been taking pictures for many years. Her work
has been seen in
all the major magazines of fashion and style. Many of her portraits
are some of the most important people of their day including many
movie stars.
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Ellen
signs her new book, The Bad and the Beautiful
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She took
her first important photograph when she was seventeen – on
the Lido in Venice where she was vacationing with her mother – of Valentina, the great fashion designer of the 1930s
and 40s. Valentina is remembered today for having once been a companion
of Greta
Garbo who took up, in some way or another, with
Valentina’s
husband George Schlee. The two lived in the same
building for years thereafter, 450 East 52nd Street, and
saw to it that they never shared the same elevator or crossed paths
in the lobby.
Years after that picture was taken – it graces the bound
cover, front and back of Graham’s The Bad and the
Beautiful – a man named Gaylord Hauser (the
most famous nutritionist of the 1950s) brought Garbo to Graham’s
house in Beverly Hills for dinner one night. The house which
Graham shares
with her husband, insurance executive Ian Graham,
is filled with Graham’s work. Garbo, while having a tour, saw the picture
of Valentina – along with portraits of Andy Warhol,
Fred Astaire, David Bowie, Gloria Swanson, etc., – hanging
on a bedroom wall.
“Who are these people?” the legendary star wanted to know. “Are
they your friends? Who took the pictures?”
Graham already
knew that the woman habitually recoiled from even the thought
of any kind of publicity, and she knew also of her
history with Valentina. It wouldn’t have been unlikely
if Garbo at that moment turned on heel and departed, but Graham
had
to confess to her guest that the pictures were her work.
“Well, they are first class.”
Garbo came back several times for dinner and never mentioned
them again. Nor did Graham ever ask to take her picture,
knowing that
would be the end of the relationship then and there.
Ellen Graham’s first big professional assignment came
forty years ago, photographing “the World’s One Hundred Most
Attractive Men” for Men’s Bazaar. Both the magazine
and the men liked the results, and she was invited back for more.
In 1974, she was asked to photograph Gloria Swanson,
then as old as the century, during the filming of Airport ’75.
Graham remembers thinking:
“How am I going to make a seventy-four-year-old
woman look good?” She recalls, “well, she
made me look good. She never lost it, she was incredibly beautiful
at seventy-four. She had pale blue eyes that didn’t look
at you – they looked through you. Those eyes had seen it
all, and I could never get over how beautiful she was.”
“I suggested shooting Gloria on a bare stage surrounded by the empty
chairs of the other stars of the film” (which included Charlton
Heston, George Kennedy, Helen Reddy, Myrna Loy, Dana Andrews, Efrem
Zimbalist and Martha Scott). Two hundred
people watched at Universal Studios as Miss Swanson walked out
onto the set and sat down in
her chair. She was magnificent. She was the only real star, and
she knew it.”
Swanson, like a lot of actors, hated to be photographed. She
said it was worse than going to the dentist. The still photograph
is
anathema to many of the biggest stars. There’s nothing to
do for the still. They like something where they can be moving,
where they can play a part.
Swanson and Graham became friends after that first shoot. She later
photographed the legend in denim and sables for Vogue and for the
cover of her autobiography, Swanson. |
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The
Duchess of Sevilla at the Plaza Athenee
Paris
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Paul
Newman and Rosemarie Stack
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Marlene
Dietrich
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After
that initial shoot, Ellen Graham has photographed many stars and
legends including Groucho, Alfred Hitchcock, Anthony Quinn,
George C. Scott, Jack Lemmon, Sammy Davis Jr, Dietrich, Joe Louis,
Rudolph Nureyev, Diana Vreeland and Fred Astaire.
There are many others who skyrocketed to fame after Graham first
photographed them including Candace Bergen, Christopher
Walken (who graces the cover) Anthony Hopkins,
Viggo Mortenson, Kevin Kline, Lorenzo Lamas. There are many whose fame
has survived: Prince Philip, Arlene Dahl, Kirk Douglas,
roman Polanski, Jack Nicholson, Olivia de Haviland, her sister
Joan Fontaine, Paul Newman, Warren Beatty and Dominick
Dunne. Their images can all be found in the book.
There are images of those who came to tragic circumstances including Monroe,
Natalie Wood, Sharon Tate, Vicki Morgan – the mistress of Alfred
Bloomingdale who was murdered after his death, and Berry Berenson who
was killed in one of the planes that crashed into the World Trade Center on September
11.
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| Click
to order |
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There
are also those never touched by fame such
as the transvestite prostitutes in the Bois de Boulogne, the
people at the racetrack in Paris, the street photographer in
Havana. There are the young – the baby-faced Melanie
Griffith and the American-looking preppie Prince
Albert of Monaco, as well as the old – Al
Hirschfeld, still at work at his drawing board in
his nineties, and the eternally chic – Denise
Hale (at the time of the photograph was Denise (Mrs.
Vincente) Minnelli of Beverly Hills
draped in a white towel that could pass for a Madame Gres,
as well as Manhattan’s own Nan Kempner,
and the eternally beautiful model Carmen.
Many familiar, many a memory, many like us, just faces of humanity,
all to intrigue.
As Garbo said, “they are first class.” |
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| Clockwise
from left: Denise Hale; Francis
Carpenter; Warren Beatty. |
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Candace
Bergen & her brother Chris Bergen
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| Andy
Warhol |
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Halston
and Marisa Berenson |
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